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The A-line leather jacket, round-collar blouse and sweater vest, and black patent pants were instantly recognizable in a way not many other designers can claim. Amidst the churn of creative directors today, a decade is some kind of record. Ten years later, this evening is a new dawn. As strong as his design language is, the references were easy enough to spot, even if his reinterpretations were far from line-for-line. The jackets heavily embroidered with metallic threads and embellished with cabochon stones recalled the frock coats of the Louis XVI collection for spring he presented in the medieval part of the Louvre. Sparkling skirts that bubbled below the knees seemed to be a callback to spring , a pandemic-time show he staged without an audience. And the swirling asymmetric hems of the spectacular fringy evening numbers evoked the deconstructed scuba-suit dresses from his resort show in Rio. Both were themes here, as seen in sculptural minidresses photo-printed with classic trunks, and the glam-leisure of plane-ready tracksuits and jackets with techy performance-wear details. The latter also reflected his longtime affinity for sci-fi. Fall Ready-to-Wear.
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