Making a skateboard mold

Concrete skateboard molds are relatively easy to make. However you are limited in your pressing options.

Designing your own mold is a fun and effective way to create your own custom skateboard! This makes the process a lot easier and more affordable than having to perfectly match a male and female side of a standard concrete or wood mold. Here are the tools you need: - Utility knife with a sharp long blade - Some sort of a saw. I used a Japanese saw, but a regular saw will do. Make it wider than the width of the deck, and glue grit sandpaper or stick grip tape to one side - pencil or black marker - A straight edge like a combination square or 12" ruler. The mold can be made out of foam, mdf or other stable and shapeable materials.

Making a skateboard mold

Wood skateboard molds are nice because they can be used to make a skateboard deck using all sorts of pressing techniques and they're not too expensive to make. I made this wood skateboard mold with these plans in mind and by following this article it shouldn't be that difficult for you to make, very time consuming, but not that difficult. Just make sure you have a thorough understanding of how it is done before starting this project. To make this skateboard mold accessible to the novice wood worker while retaining as much accuracy as possible, you will need to print out the three PDF section drawings below. These section drawings have been drawn to scale, meaning that once printed, they will be the same size as the wood mold that you're making. Also, each PDF section drawing represents both the top and bottom of of the wood skateboard mold. The lines in the center are the cut lines, lines that once cut will make up the top and bottom of the wood skateboard mold. Also, to save space and time, PDF section drawings 1 through 3 will be printed twice and used for both sides of the wood skateboard mold not the top and bottom. You will use the PDF section drawing 0 once, for the center 2x8 as seen to the right. Gather all your materials. Start by cutting two 12' long 2x8's into 34" lengths. You will need a total of seven. Piece your printed PDF section drawings together, end to end, as shown here. They are only going to add up to 33", so your going to have to draw that extra half inch on each end.

The steps above for the bottom mold are the same for the top, follow them exactly.

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Skateboarding began well before the first commercial skateboard came out in Commercial skateboard manufacturing merely made a business out of what those kids were doing. Early skateboards were simple affairs, compared to what is produced today. While the general idea is the same, a considerable amount of technology has gone into improving the decks, trucks and wheels used in their manufacture. The deck of a skateboard is a hand-laid plywood construction. Essentially, making a skateboard deck is the same as any bentwood project, with the exception of its width. Still, there are some modern bentwood pieces which use wide veneers , just like skateboards do. In order to make any skateboard deck, a mold is required. The mold will provide the contour for the deck, including the kicks at the ends.

Making a skateboard mold

CNC milled skateboard mold and longboard mold designs. For the past few years we have had a couple different street deck designs but are now offering a variety of CNC milled skateboard mold and longboard mold designs. We start by choosing top quality clear hardwood lumber which we mill and square up, then glue into appropriately sized vertically laminated blocks. Those blocks are then machined perfectly flat on our CNC, flipped over and then milled in 3 dimensions to machine a perfectly matching set of top and bottom molds. Mold size is 34" x 10" allowing you to make both narrow and wide decks from the same mold. Our Version 2 street deck skateboard mold is set up for 4 decks stacked, with medium concave and nose angle at 18 degrees, tail angle 18 degrees,. During the Covid pandemic build times for molds are approximately 3 weeks for v1 and v2 molds, 4 weeks for custom molds. We are short staffed and quite busy currently, sorry for the inconvenience. Mold size is approx 34" x 10" Note: build times for molds are currently approximately 3 weeks for v1 and v2 molds. Street Deck skateboard mold version 2 - 4 decks stacked, with medium concave and nose angle at 18 degrees, tail angle 18 degrees,.

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These steps apply to almost any deck shape you want to build. If you're using a concrete that requires a lengthy setting time, you might want to build two boxes and purchase two uncut decks for convenience. Make sure you do not cut below the profile line. You will almost always have to use an actual press, hydraulic or bottle jack. These section drawings have been drawn to scale, meaning that once printed, they will be the same size as the wood mold that you're making. Attach them to the finished box. Be careful not to chip or crack the concrete if using tools to assist in the removal. Take your time, have patience and a good understanding of the process. Also, to save space and time, PDF section drawings 1 through 3 will be printed twice and used for both sides of the wood skateboard mold not the top and bottom. Once again be careful during the removal. You will most likely have to keep the surface wet for a half hour or longer. If you have a press or plan on making one all you need to make a concrete skateboard mold is a uncut skateboard deck, wooden box, the tools listed and concrete. Here are a few pictures of the pressing and of my final deck.

Our goal is to use skateboarding as a vehicle to propel creativity and empower communities.

Pre drill and put about four screws into the deck on both sides. You will most likely have to keep the surface wet for a half hour or longer. You just want to have each 2x8 meet the previous one. More by the author:. We work closely with schools to integrate board building programs into the classroom, and help ans… More About Rockitalk ». The denser the material, the more it will hold up over multiple pressings, but the harder it will be to shape. Piece your printed PDF section drawings together, end to end, as shown here. The screws will be left in for extra strength. Just make sure you have a thorough understanding of how it is done before starting this project. Make sure you do not cut below the profile line. Then allow the concrete to cure the same way as before and remove that bad boy from the mold. Now, while the clamps are in place, screw them together using about 3 screws. Some of these concretes are difficult to mix and set up pretty quick, so having a friend to help you will save your butt here. CURE Follow the manufacturers instructions to allow the concrete to cure. An orbital sander with 60 to 80 grit sandpaper works good here.