Mantua clothing

Global Arts, Cultures and Design 7 min read, mantua clothing. This extravagant, highly impractical gown would have been worn at royal occasions.

This gown was worn over a pair of stays corset and an often contrasting petticoat. The draping and folding of fabric created a front-opening gown. After its invention in the s, the new gown became immediately popular among fashionable Parisian women. Although strict dress codes at the Versailles court of French King Louis XIV prohibited the wearing of mantuas, women at the English court helped popularise it in England. By the s, the mantua was widely worn in Western and Central Europe, as well as in European colonies around the world.

Mantua clothing

Mantua of damask silk with woven garlands and floral motifs. Courtesy GemeenteMuseum Den Haag. Introduced in Europe in the s, the mantua was in origin a loose coat for women, with a kimono-like cut. It was inspired by the clothes and robes recently imported from India, that were worn by Western men as dressing gowns. Court dress consisting of an embroidered silk mantua robe and petticoat, probably made in England, Courtesy Victoria and Albert Museum, all rights reserved. Cream silk sack-back and petticoat made from a mantua from the late s. Initially considered too informal to be worn outside private spaces by Louis XIV, by the end of the 17th century the mantua became the formal dress worn in the courts of Europe and continued to be worn in England until , when George IV suggested it should be abandoned. In the early eighteenth century elliptical side hoops came to fashion, the shapes of the mantua changed to accommodate them. Following the crazes of the court, its width even reached, in the most extreme cases, two meters. Signs of exaggeration: The Mantua A widely fascinating story.

This piece of fabric mantua clothing known as a stomacher. The skills and techniques of each profession remained quite different. Learn more about this artwork.

Not on view. The late s saw a new development in the style of women's dress that would have a far-reaching effect throughout the following century. The stiff constricting boned bodice-and-skirt style previously worn by women was now replaced with the mantua, a more loosely draped style of gown. The mantua was thought to display silk designs to their best advantage, as they were draped rather than cut; as such, it is believed the garment was named after Mantua in Italy, where expensive silks were produced. However, it has also been suggested that the name derives from manteau , the French term for a coat. The mantua was a coatlike construction, with sleeves cut in one piece with the back and front.

A mantua from the French manteuil or 'mantle' is an article of women's clothing worn in the late 17th century and 18th century. Initially a loose gown , the later mantua was an overgown or robe typically worn over stays , stomacher and either a co-ordinating or contrasting petticoat. The mantua or manteau was a new fashion that arose in the s. Instead of a bodice and skirt cut separately, the mantua hung from the shoulders to the floor like dresses of earlier periods. It started as the female version of the men's banyan , worn for "undress" wear. Gradually the mantua developed into a draped and pleated dress and eventually evolved into a dress worn looped and draped up over a contrasting petticoat and a stomacher. The mantua-and-stomacher resulted in a high, square neckline in contrast to the broad, off-the-shoulder neckline previously in fashion. The new look was more modest and covered-up than previous fashions and decidedly fussy, with bows, frills, ribbons, and other trim, but the short string of pearls and pearl earrings or "eardrops" worn since the s remained popular. The mantua, made from a single length of fabric pleated to fit with a long train, was ideal for showing the designs of the new elaborately patterned silks that replaced the solid-coloured satins popular in the mid-century.

Mantua clothing

This gown was worn over a pair of stays corset and an often contrasting petticoat. The draping and folding of fabric created a front-opening gown. After its invention in the s, the new gown became immediately popular among fashionable Parisian women. Although strict dress codes at the Versailles court of French King Louis XIV prohibited the wearing of mantuas, women at the English court helped popularise it in England. By the s, the mantua was widely worn in Western and Central Europe, as well as in European colonies around the world. Before the 17th century, outer garments were usually made by male tailors.

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The stiff constricting boned bodice-and-skirt style previously worn by women was now replaced with the mantua, a more loosely draped style of gown. From there it was folded back into a bustle shape and worn over a matching petticoat. As the style evolved, the pleats at the front were reduced in number and the bodice was opened, with the torso now covered by a stiffened piece of fabric in the form of an inverted triangle, tapering into a narrow waist. Norah Waugh has published a pattern taken from this mantua. The fashionable shape of the torso at this time was much more conical with a flatter, smoother bust line, fashioned by the rigid stays worn by ladies in the 18th century. Tools Tools. But several male tailoring guilds in Europe attempted to stop women working as mantua makers, claiming they were taking away their business. As part of the Met's Open Access policy , you can freely copy, modify and distribute this image, even for commercial purposes. Did you know? Mantua British ca. Scroll left to view more.

A mantua from the French manteuil or 'mantle' is an article of women's clothing worn in the late 17th century and 18th century. Initially a loose gown , the later mantua was an overgown or robe typically worn over stays , stomacher and either a co-ordinating or contrasting petticoat.

Made from Silk, gilt metal, linen. S2CID From about , it became customary to pin up the train. Feedback We continue to research and examine historical and cultural context for objects in The Met collection. These networks gave these women access to vast amounts of clients and social capital. Following the crazes of the court, its width even reached, in the most extreme cases, two meters. This piece of fabric was known as a stomacher. The costume mounter also had to make padded arms, which are stitched onto the acrylic torso, and a replica stomacher, as stomachers original to 18th century open-fronted dresses rarely survive. London: Faber, Hobble Poodle Sompot Sinh Train. It is backed with linen and embroidered with naturalistic floral design in coloured silks and silver-gilt thread. Victoria and Albert Museum.